Strip Mall Eats
When it comes to great eats in the Magic City, do not – I repeat, do not overlook the strip malls. Miami’s most forlorn retail strips often hide the most spectacular restaurants.
Case in point: Last night, my husband and I dined regally at Two Chefs. This fabulous New American gem is tucked in a quiet Pinecrest strip mall at Ludlam and US 1. I’ve know about this place for a while, and always intended to try it out someday -- but now I regret not going there a lot sooner. Holy guacamole, what heavenly cuisine they dish out there!
Two Chefs was originally started by two Danish pals, Soren Bredahl and Jan Jorgenson, who also ran a cooking school on the premises. When Bredahl decided to go back to Denmark, Jorgenson stayed on. Now, Jorgenson runs a tight ship full of dedicated line cooks and a professional wait staff that have engendered a devoted clientele.
I began my meal with a divine shrimp bisque enhanced with small pieces of shrimp and a few tiny potato dumplings. I’m not one to rave over soups, but this was so velvety, so rich, so perfectly seasoned that my husband couldn’t help but notice the expression on my face.
“It’s good, huh?” he said.
“Oh yes. Very, very good. Do you want a taste?”
“Sure, I’ll try it.”
“How are your crab cakes?”
“Delicious. You have to try a bite.”
And so the evening went, the two of us trading tastes of his succulent bacon-wrapped scallops, and my coq au vin, laced with caramelized onions and button mushrooms in a sauce that would make Julia Child swoon. We fought over the last moist crumbs of a Grand Marnier soufflé, served with two sauces, one a liqueur-laced vanilla and the other a rich caramel. Two Chefs is known for their selection of dessert soufflés, and next time I will remember to order a whole one just for myself.
Two Chefs’ décor is simple yet welcoming. A long bar with an excellent selection of wines and a special collection of liqueurs graces the front of the house. Comfortable armchairs let you settle in for the presentation of imaginatively cooked food with flavors that will linger in your imagination. A large wood-burning oven anchors the square-shaped dining room. Pizzas -- called flatbreads here -- are delivered thin and crispy from the oven with combinations that include lobster, shallots and asparagus; smoked pork, olives and roasted peppers; and fire-roasted tomato and garlic.
Two Chefs is wonderful, but there are other not-to-be-missed restaurants in Miami’s Strip Mall Hall of Fame. A quick rundown includes Matsuri, inside Red Bird Shopping Mall at the intersection of Red and Bird Road in Coral Gables. This sushi joint is always crowded. Fresh fish and a super efficient staff are the reasons why. It’s also a good place to bring the kids. Child-friendly chopsticks and crispy chicken Katsu will keep them happy until bedtime.
LAN Café is a small Pan-Asian restaurant tucked beneath Dadeland Station in Kendall. Dishes include Thai curries, spring rolls, noodle plates, Korean barbecue and sushi and sashimi. Prices are very reasonable here, and lunch is as popular as dinner.
If you want some of the best Chinese food in Miami, head to Tropical Chinese in West Miami Dade. This casual yet elegant restaurant is the real deal, featuring Hong Kong-style dim sum and an open kitchen turning out hard-to-find Chinese specialties.
Chef Allen’s in Aventura is one of South Florida’s most raved about restaurants. Chef Allen Susser and his staff dazzle diners with New World Cuisine featuring tropical fruits, Caribbean spices and the freshest meats and seafood. Excellent wines and fabulous desserts round out the fun. This year, the restaurant celebrates its 20th anniversary.
I once drove up and down Little Havana’s famed Calle Ocho (Eighth Street) looking for Hy-Vong. This tiny gem offers French-inspired Vietnamese cooking that has patrons waiting impatiently outside on any given night. Here are two tips: 1) when you see the famous Cuban restaurant called Versailles, Hy-Vong is located right across the street. 2) Order the Pork Rolling Cakes. You won’t be sorry.
Case in point: Last night, my husband and I dined regally at Two Chefs. This fabulous New American gem is tucked in a quiet Pinecrest strip mall at Ludlam and US 1. I’ve know about this place for a while, and always intended to try it out someday -- but now I regret not going there a lot sooner. Holy guacamole, what heavenly cuisine they dish out there!
Two Chefs was originally started by two Danish pals, Soren Bredahl and Jan Jorgenson, who also ran a cooking school on the premises. When Bredahl decided to go back to Denmark, Jorgenson stayed on. Now, Jorgenson runs a tight ship full of dedicated line cooks and a professional wait staff that have engendered a devoted clientele.
I began my meal with a divine shrimp bisque enhanced with small pieces of shrimp and a few tiny potato dumplings. I’m not one to rave over soups, but this was so velvety, so rich, so perfectly seasoned that my husband couldn’t help but notice the expression on my face.
“It’s good, huh?” he said.
“Oh yes. Very, very good. Do you want a taste?”
“Sure, I’ll try it.”
“How are your crab cakes?”
“Delicious. You have to try a bite.”
And so the evening went, the two of us trading tastes of his succulent bacon-wrapped scallops, and my coq au vin, laced with caramelized onions and button mushrooms in a sauce that would make Julia Child swoon. We fought over the last moist crumbs of a Grand Marnier soufflé, served with two sauces, one a liqueur-laced vanilla and the other a rich caramel. Two Chefs is known for their selection of dessert soufflés, and next time I will remember to order a whole one just for myself.
Two Chefs’ décor is simple yet welcoming. A long bar with an excellent selection of wines and a special collection of liqueurs graces the front of the house. Comfortable armchairs let you settle in for the presentation of imaginatively cooked food with flavors that will linger in your imagination. A large wood-burning oven anchors the square-shaped dining room. Pizzas -- called flatbreads here -- are delivered thin and crispy from the oven with combinations that include lobster, shallots and asparagus; smoked pork, olives and roasted peppers; and fire-roasted tomato and garlic.
Two Chefs is wonderful, but there are other not-to-be-missed restaurants in Miami’s Strip Mall Hall of Fame. A quick rundown includes Matsuri, inside Red Bird Shopping Mall at the intersection of Red and Bird Road in Coral Gables. This sushi joint is always crowded. Fresh fish and a super efficient staff are the reasons why. It’s also a good place to bring the kids. Child-friendly chopsticks and crispy chicken Katsu will keep them happy until bedtime.
LAN Café is a small Pan-Asian restaurant tucked beneath Dadeland Station in Kendall. Dishes include Thai curries, spring rolls, noodle plates, Korean barbecue and sushi and sashimi. Prices are very reasonable here, and lunch is as popular as dinner.
If you want some of the best Chinese food in Miami, head to Tropical Chinese in West Miami Dade. This casual yet elegant restaurant is the real deal, featuring Hong Kong-style dim sum and an open kitchen turning out hard-to-find Chinese specialties.
Chef Allen’s in Aventura is one of South Florida’s most raved about restaurants. Chef Allen Susser and his staff dazzle diners with New World Cuisine featuring tropical fruits, Caribbean spices and the freshest meats and seafood. Excellent wines and fabulous desserts round out the fun. This year, the restaurant celebrates its 20th anniversary.
I once drove up and down Little Havana’s famed Calle Ocho (Eighth Street) looking for Hy-Vong. This tiny gem offers French-inspired Vietnamese cooking that has patrons waiting impatiently outside on any given night. Here are two tips: 1) when you see the famous Cuban restaurant called Versailles, Hy-Vong is located right across the street. 2) Order the Pork Rolling Cakes. You won’t be sorry.
posted by Carolyn Keating at
8:51 AM
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